The Pro Tour: An Insiders' Guide to Shopping Downtown

The annual pilgrimage has begun to Chicago's shopping mecca.Hundreds of thousands of suburbanites and visitors trek to MichiganAvenue and State Street this time of year to pay homage to thebig-time department stores and famous specialty shops.

For many families, the trip is an entertaining ritual thatincludes a visit to Santa Claus, a meal under the tree at MarshallField's and a tour of the city's animated windows.

But for serious shoppers, the venture may involve hand-to-handcombat. Consider that on a busy holiday shopping day, 125 tour busesdrop off shoppers near Chicago Place and 75,000 to 100,000 peoplepass through the doors of the flagship Marshall Field's store. Inall likelihood, every one of them will be standing between you andthat last pair of elephant slippers.

Shoppers who only visit downtown stores once or twice a yearlose valuable time scoping out the territory. Even regulars can beconfused by monthly changes in the store lineup.

Not to worry. We've decided to share our shopping insights.We'll tell you which malls to hit, which to avoid. How to get yourFrango Mints and run. This is a selective guide based on ourpersonal shopping habits - keep in mind one of us is the fashioneditor, the other, a writer for our At Home section, and shopping ispart of our job descriptions.

Both of us favor gifts with a practical bent, such as pictureframes, soaps and gourmet goodies. We've avoided telling you theobvious - you already know that Saks Fifth Avenue carries men's ties.

Our route goes from North to South, beginning at 900 N. Michiganand ending at 1 S. State. Even intrepid shoppers would be hardpressed to cover this territory in one day, so look at this guide asa general outline to be edited and expanded to suit your mission. 900 North Michigan Shops (1)

Practical advice: Entering from Michigan Avenue, head to the leftside for the elevators. Take them to 6 and work your way down. Ifdriving, take note of the great rate here: $5 for five hours with apurchase at the mall. You must get the parking ticket validated at astore.

Special services: During the holiday season, there's a coat andpackage check, gift wrapping, and shipping services (UPS and FederalExpress) on 4. All for a fee, of course. Where we shop Level 6: Truefitt & Hill is a British style, proper gentleman'sbarbershop. Gift certificates for a hot shave, $30, are a realtreat. We also look here for unusual men's shaving supplies andtoiletries. At Bloomingdale's, we cruise through their housewaresand tabletop accessories. Abstract heart plates by Kosta Boda, $60,are already pre-wrapped. The gourmet shop has giant boxes of Good &Plenty, $12.50, and tins of Bazooka bubble gum, $16, for yourfavorite kids, big or little. We head for Niedermaier 900 to checkout their decorative accessories. Prices aren't cheap, but you cancount on finding striking picture frames and candlestick holders in apostmodern Baroque style. We also found cuddly, curly-haired teddybears for $25. Level 5: Oilily has colorful kids clothes if money is no object.Roots Canada also carries some noteworthy children's clothes, such asa cotton sleeper/jumpsuit in a star print for $32.95. The MuseumShop of the Art Institute of Chicago is great for cards, calendarsand ornaments as well as art-inspired jewelry, clocks and glassware.The selection isn't as good as at the museum, but the store is lesscrowded. Level 4: Goldi is actually a shoe store, but we never pass it bywhen we're on the prowl for gifts. An eclectic assortment ofclothes, jewelry and tabletop accessories is mixed in with the shoedisplays. We loved the gilt angel candlestick holders for $19 each,the $29 watering can made from a recycled can of jalapeno peppers andthe $98 tea pots in the shape of a vintage dry sink or stove. H20Plus is a great place to find bath and skincare goodies. Theirbrightly colored loofah gloves, $10, are standout stocking stuffers.Bonus: The store gift wraps for free. Level 2: The J. Crew store has an expanded selection of themerchandise in its catalogs. It's especially good for men's gifts,such as flannel boxer shorts, $24, pieced in different patterns. Pop into the Frank McIntosh shop at HenriBendel for decorative table gifts such as glasses, dessert plates andcoasters. They're pricy but exquisite. Take the steps down a halffloor to the mezzanine for merino wool sweaters in this season's hotcolors and a choice of necklines, $49. Back on Michigan (2-3) Take a right and head south. Don't miss Waterstone's Booksellers(2), 840 N. Michigan (entrance is on Chestnut). This is the place togo if you know someone's interests and need recommendations forspecific titles. Head downstairs for calendars, children's books anda huge selection of cookbooks. Check out Waterstone's LiteraryDiary, $25 and $9.95, depending on size, for your author friends. F. A. O. Schwarz (3), also at 840 N. Michigan, is a child's dreamand a parent's nightmare. At least there are enough demonstrationsto keep Junior enthralled for hours. Personal favorites are theBarbie Doll boutique, the troll shop and the array of children'sbooks on the second floor. Water Tower Place (4) 835 N. Michigan

Practical advice: Avoid this mall unless you're a teenager orjust shop like one. The crowds are unbearable during the shoppingseason, and trust us, you have most of these stores in your localmalls.

Special services: Until Christmas, there's a coat and packagecheck as well as gift wrapping on Level 7. All carry a fee. SantaClaus, however, will let you confide your heart's desire for nocharge. Where we shop If Frango Mints are a staple on your shopping list, head for theback entrance off Pearson where the taxis pick up. Inside the dooris the entrance to Marshall Field's gourmet shop, which carries thecomplete line of Frango products.

If you're intent on shopping the rest of the mall, you can avoidthe mass hysteria at the front entrance by taking the officeelevators by Fannie May to the eighth floor. You'll be in Field's.Take the escalator down one flight and head out to the top level ofthe mall. One other stop we like: Rizzoli on the third level. This bookstorecarries a great selection of engagement calendars and an extensivecollection of classical and foreign CDs and cassettes. Also fun arethe high-brow games like Philanthropist, $50, which has to do withfamous art and museums. Neiman Marcus (5) 737 N. Michigan Head for the men's area on the main floor and take the elevator tothe fourth floor, where you'll find the gourmet foods. The store'sRed River brand salsas and hot sauces make delicious gifts. A boxedset of Red River margarita and Bloody Mary mix, $12.50, is anothertreat. Grapeseed oil with herbs comes in a beautiful glass decanter,$21. We stop here to pick up French sparkling cider (it contains 2.2percent alcohol) as a hostess gift, $6.50.

Just off the gourmet area is the Christmas Glories shop. Michigan Again (6-8) Across the street from Neiman's is Banana Republic's flagshipstore, 744 N. Michigan, (6) where you'll almost always find somethingyou just have to buy. Head south and cross the street for NikeTown, 669 N. Michigan,(7). You've got to see it. At 646 N. Michigan is Crate & Barrel's flagship (8). Warning: Itwill be mobbed. Anything you'd give as a gift is on the first orsecond floor. Chicago Place (9)

Practical advice: Walk through the main floor toward Rush Streetto the express elevator to the eighth floor. On upper levels whereyou must walk around the floor to get the down escalator, pop intoSaks Fifth Avenue and use that escalator.

Special services: Free package delivery within a five-mileradius. Until Christmas, there's gift wrapping on Level 8. The feewill be donated to charity. Where we shop Level 7: Words in Motion carries 5,000 books on tape. A cart by theescalator sells UNICEF cards and gifts. Level 6: The Euro-Kids kiosk stocks colorful clothes and accessoriesfor children, including denim overalls trimmed with star-printedfabric, $22.99. The Christmas Shoppe has plenty of holiday trimmingswith a folkloric, country look. Level 5: We always check out Chiasso for its unusual gifts, fromtableware and jewelry to high-tech desk accessories. The store hascookie cutters in abstract shapes, $29 for a box of eight, and in theshapes of famous buildings, $23 for six. The toothbrush designed byPhilippe Starck, $12, is a great stocking stuffer. Level 4: Chiaroscuro is another regular stop. Most everything ismade by artists, not mass manufactured. Papier mache animal masks,$50, can cheer up any room. At Hold Everything, we look for prettyhatboxes and jewelry organizers and unusual CD racks. The Real NancyDrew carries this Michigan-based artist's whimsical work oneverything from T-shirts to pillows. Level 2: Williams-Sonoma is another treasure trove for gourmetfoodstuffs and quality kitchen gadgets. Level 1: The Body Shop always has attractive gift baskets full ofsoaps, bath beads and moisturizers. For kids, check out the box offive animal soaps depicting endangered species, $8.25. Man AboutTown is a sure place to find whimsical ties, vests, cummerbund setsand suspenders. Marshall Field's (10) 111 N. State

Practical advice: Look for the new escalators in the centralatrium area. They're a big time-saver.

Services: Free coat check on 9. Gift wrapping, for a fee, on 6.Santa holds court in Cozy Cloud Cottage on 5. Where we shop In the basement, there is a great selection of gourmet foods andwines for those who like to make their own gift baskets. On the samefloor in stationery, you'll find clever art cards and a Mont Blancpen boutique. Up on 6, a Pendleton area carries Indian tradingblankets, $138, and satchels, $49. In the tablewares area on 6, theAfrican placemats, $9.99, and table toppers by Bamboula really stoodout. Nearby, the Trim A Home Shop has a vast array of ornaments. Filene's Basement (11) 1 N. State (Downstairs)

Sure it's catch-as-catch-can at off-price stores, but Filene'sBasement can almost always be counted on for a wide selection ofmen's and women's watches at great prices. We saw Seiko, Guess andFossil. The store carries many top fragrances - on our visit theyhad Joy, Chanel No. 5 and Poison - at a discount. There was a run onFerragamo silk scarves at $40. In men's, we always scan the ties,which range from $10-$24, and stock up on shirts. T. J. Maxx (12) 1 N. State (Upstairs)

This is where we head for great deals on children's clothes,picture frames and photo albums. We also spotted great prices onboxer shorts and men's dress socks, $5.99 for Polo and Coach. Carson Pirie Scott (13) 1 S. State

Services: Basic gift wrapping is free with any purchase untilChristmas. Gift wrapping stations are on 2 and 6, with additionaloutposts on the main floor and the lower level. Overburdenedshoppers can rent lockers on 3 and 7. Santa issues ho-ho-hos on 5. Where we shop

To find the more unusual merchandise, head to the fifth floor.Near the stationery area we saw piggy banks with their bellieshandpainted to look like a strawberry or planet, $32. Wooden pictureframes from Kenya trimmed in leather seemed well priced at $30. Weliked the wooden nutcrackers from Germany, $36 and up, and wereimpressed by Angie Sinclair's carved wooden Santas and snowmen with afolkloric spirit. The Mickey & Friends Ginger Bread House Kit, $26,looked like a fun way to spend three hours with children. TheTrim-A-Home area was stocked with well-chosen, well-priced ornaments.